When we find a place in the world that looks and feels like paradise, we tend to want to explore that place in depth. After the intense shakedown sail to Brava and the associated healing and projects list, we took a little time to look around and discovered we were anchored in a totally beautiful environment. The water is clear and warm, but not too warm for swimming and making water, the people are awesome, hardworking and respectful, and the cove we are anchored in is calm and quiet.
Brazil is looking less and less attractive from a cruiser’s perspective, being expensive and a long ways away with a bit of a beat south of the equator. After the debacle where we got and then lost a contract for writing a Brazil cruising guide, we’re no longer sure we want to continue on the Portuguese trade-wind route, east around the world. We had developed an entire five-year circumnavigation course and plan. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not like we had an itinerary or anything but we had a working plan that was cool and exciting…then it was blown to shit. We were both numb for weeks afterwards. Gradually we came out of the shock, anger, resentment and healing phases of the process and regained our excitement about what it is we are doing with our lives.
And that brings us back to the island of Brava, uniquely situated in the middle of the Atlantic flow of the Earth’s one big ocean. I (James) mean, from our current perspective here in Cabo Verde, we could very easily take the fair winds back to the Caribbean for the winter then take the Gulf Stream back to the Downeast run, setting us up to do the Northwest Passage. The boat is ship-shape and ready to go. We are healthy again and pondering an entire ‘verse of directional possibilities. But we’re in fucking paradise and not in any big hurry to do much of anything really.
We have been up and down the mountain trail three time as of this writing with another round trip planned before we weigh anchor for…
Where?!
While we let that question percolate, we got ourselves a room. The anniversary lunch was nice and all, but it didn’t feel like as much of a treat as we wanted. Some time to decompress, to refocus, to step away and gain new perspective…and pleasure! We booked an actual hotel room with an actual shower at a hotel with a pool (not that we don’t get a lot of swimming already, and I [Dena] love swimming with the fishes). It would be the first time we’d slept off the boat since we celebrated James’ birthday in 2021 by taking the cat to a cabin in Friendship, Maine.
We rowed the dinghy to the rocky beach and made our third climb of the cliff in order to catch a ride from an aluguer. (If that doesn’t help you understand why we didn’t bring the cat this time, I don’t know what will.)
Ish took us to Nova Sintra and we did the next leg in a different aluguer. We were reaching new territory again, always a reason to be excited, and it was beautiful.
The Faja de Agua Beach House did not disappoint. It’s brand new and at a lovely point on the coast. So new, in fact that only three of the rooms were complete. The painting and staining work was neither noisy nor noxious, so it didn’t impinge on the pleasure at all.
It was straight into the shower. James went first and I did a little nesting, then took my turn under the cool water. It was a rain shower type head and it felt luxurious to simply stand under the flow. Our garden sprayer does a decent job, but we make all that water and we treat it like it’s dear.
The release of tension acted like a soporific. James went to sleep on the very comfortable bed and I put my caftan on so I could lounge by the pool.
In the time James napped, I found out when they’d be serving dinner (just for us). I shared the picture of the kids with some friends. I stared out over the hillsides and dinna fash myself about the existential issues. A little light conversation with the owners and very few words from their son, and I was ready for another shower before dinner.
I’d asked for shellfish and we got freaking excellent saucy lapas and buzio, salad and rice and french fries. It was to be a feast for the senses but was not yet ready. Rather than just wait around getting hungry we took a walk!
There is nothing between Brava and Brazil but wide open ocean.
Upon our return to the hotel I (James) took another heavenly shower and we dressed for our dinner that was permeating the local environment like a delicious dream.
After that incredible meal we jumped in the pool for a quick cool off, went back to the room, and fell into each others arms. Man do we love to celebrate!
Early the next morning we were up with the sun. Check out wasn’t until 01100 so we went back down to the tide pools for a much closer inspection.
After exploring the pools for a couple of hours, we stopped and said our hello’s to the local donkey…
Then it was back on the road in another totally packed aluguer…
…but the scenery was spectacular!
From being packed in with school children to reprovisioning in Nova Sintra, thence in Ish’s aluguer again back to Tantum. We got inside seats this time and shared the narrow back bench with a woman and her infant. Thinking this might be the last time we’d see him, we got a selfie with Ish.
We really got what we wanted from the second try at an anniversary celebration, a deep and profound reflection on our 28 years and a sense of hope for the next 28 together. The excess food came home with us and we stretched out the decadence another day.
We live; we love.
